*This list will be updated periodically to ensure we are always recommending the very best products to new puppy owners. Please check back regularly as we update and refine. Should any links have expired please let us know and we will update ASAP.
Before you bring your puppy home you will no doubt be thinking to yourself, what exactly do I need to purchase, what immediate expenses will there be and how much will everything cost? Have I got everything? Do I really need this? We've all been there and it's tempting to buy more than you really need or purchase the wrong thing entirely.
We decided to set up a list below of items we would personally recommend to puppy buyers and what we think they will need before their cute little bundle of fun arrives home. This list is based on years of trial and error and what has worked best for us! We own most of these items ourselves and wouldn't be without them.
The items highlighted are clickable and the links will take you to the page where they can then be purchased. If anyone has any queries about any of the products mentioned, please don't hesitate to contact us.
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Petrol and parking costs as well as possible dining out and accommodation expenses when collecting your puppy, often overlooked but worth a mention here.
Insurance for your new puppy, or savings put aside in case of emergencies (what we would recommend) - the insurance costs for outcrossed or mixed breed puppies are considerably cheaper as outcrossed and mixed breed dogs currently have less health issues over their lifetime than purebred dogs, so if your dog from us is outcrossed or mixed in any way, be sure to mention this on your insurance application!
Whatever you decide to do, we recommend purchasing third party liability insurance. The Dogs Trust offer membership that includes third party liability insurance for £25.00 a year (or £12.50 if you’re over 60) and this also includes ‘VetfoneTM’, a 24 hour emergency advice service as well as their ‘Canine Care Card’ for peace of mind.
We do not insure any of our dogs - except with third party liability insurance through The Dogs Trust - but have a savings account instead where we have money ready should we need it. So, unfortunately, we aren’t very good at recommending insurers, however.. the Go Compare website is a good place to begin your search!
*Please be aware that The Kennel Club charge MORE for insurance when you purchase via them/their website, than if you go direct to who they are underwritten by ~ Agria Pet Insurance. However, we would not recommend Agria insurance anyway as we have had poor feedback from our puppy buyers who have utilised their services*
Microchip transfer - Depending on who the chip is registered with will depend on if a fee is payable to transfer the chip over into your name or if this cost had already been paid or was already included when the puppy was chipped. If there is a fee to transfer the microchip into your name it should be no more than around £20.00 or so.
For puppies registered with The ISA there is no fee to change ownership of the puppy, you will simply receive the puppy’s pedigree booklet with their details in, signed by ourselves. We will have already paid the fee to register the puppy or litter with The ISA.
Puppy’s first and only vaccination of Nobivac DHP at 12 + weeks of age (one and done, no more vaccines required for the life of the dog!), average cost is around £30-£40, plus appointment/consultation fee (variable), then the vet health check fee of around £40-£60, so be prepared to pay around £100 to £200 or so for pup’s first two vet visits (although some vets in the London area have been known to charge more). Always phone around and ask for the price beforehand and don’t be bullied into accepting any other unnecessary treatments, payment plans or add-ons. Try and book your appointment for first thing in the morning when the vet’s surgery is clean and quiet.
Puppy pram, stroller or cart on wheels with a crate placed inside etc. - Ideal for putting your puppy in for the first few weeks after bringing it home so it is able to socialise safely (until it receives its first vaccination) and for its first and second vet visits. You can also use puppy carriers such as these or these. Puppy socialisation can also be done by travelling with your puppy in your car, parking up somewhere (supermarket car parks are great for this), sitting in the boot of the car with your pup and watching the world go by! This also helps pup get used to travelling in the car, win-win!
Baby gate/s - To cordon off areas of your home you don't want pup to get to or to create a puppy proofed area of your home so pup is safe. You must be able to restrict your puppy's access to parts of your home. Allowing them to roam the entire house will drive you mad. They will pee and poop everywhere, chew things that will harm them and it will take you forever to potty train a puppy on this basis. Choose a room with washable floors, or in an open-plan house you can use a large open top playpen for the same purpose. Ensure all wires and cables are covered in chew protectors (or ideally removed or put out of harm's reach) and put away any loose items you don't want chewing (shoes, remote controls, paperwork etc.).
Adaptil home diffuser and refills, to help puppy feel calm and relaxed during its first week in its new home and beyond. We also recommend these and these from Dorwest Herbs as natural anti anxiety relief supplements that work well and are suitable for puppies. These stuffed toys with a pretend heartbeat do help some puppies to settle in much easier as well.
We recommend giving your puppy Milk Thistle two weeks before its (one and only) puppy vaccination is due and then for two weeks after the vaccination to help detox the liver of any toxins.
Puppy food - Here is our puppy feeding schedule for new owners. We recommend purchasing the same type of food that we have been feeding pup so as not to upset their stomach. Purchase this in advance of pup arriving so you have it ready. Once pup has reached a minimum of 9 months of age you can then begin to transition them onto a different type of food or diet if you so wish. Up until that age, stick to what we have been feeding them.
Foods we always recommend, tend to use ourselves and that are enjoyed by our pack include:
Millies Wolfheart *** (their wet food works out at around £37.94 per week based on a 25kg adult dog, which isn’t too bad if you only have one dog and want to treat them to the best food available, but can work out cost prohibitive with more than one (!), their dry food for the same sized dog costs £9.57 per week and is still nutritious and well suited to Shepherd Dogs and their sensitive stomachs)
Cobbydog (£13.02 per week)
Halsted Foods (£8.61 per week)
So the yearly cost to feed a 25kg dog works out at approximately £600 year/£50 per month, based on the quality of kibble mentioned above. Yes there are cheaper foods available but long term you will spend more money at the vets and your dog won’t thank you! This is the minimum amount you will need to budget for, for a female Swiss Shepherd Dog at the bottom end of the breed standard weight range.
Please bear in mind an adult male can reach up to 40kg and so adjust the cost of food accordingly…
(Some of these foods can be bought a little cheaper in larger quantities, companies will usually take off around 5% or so for bulk orders, subscriptions or bigger bags of food)
Always try and opt for grain free or hypoallergenic foods with no rice or wheat in them, as these tend to cause the most issues for dogs in terms of allergies and food sensitivities. They are used as cheap fillers and offer no nutritional value. Rice in particular is probably one of the worst foods you can give to your dog.
Winston & Porter Puppy Porridge ~ add this to your pup’s food until they reach 9 months of age and then switch to Winston & Porter’s multi-vitamin for adult dogs. We cannot recommend both of these highly enough, they really contribute to excellent fitness, health and coat/skin condition in pups and adult dogs.
***Millies also do the best puppy and adult dog treats and chews! No allergens or nasties in them and they last a really long time. Great when teaching your puppy to relax and enjoy some alone time or for teaching ‘place’. These types of long lasting natural chews are also perfect for keeping your pup’s teeth clean.
We do not recommend using Dentastix! They are not good for your dog. Feed raw, uncooked, meaty bones instead (see our puppy and adult feeding guide for more info).
The Dangers of Dentastix
Dentastix are made with a combination of grains, starches, and other ingredients, including artificial colours and flavourings. While they may appear to be harmless, they can actually be incredibly dangerous for dogs. The starches and grains in Dentastix can be difficult for a dog’s stomach to digest, leading to severe digestive distress and potential blockages.
The artificial colours and flavourings in Dentastix are also concerning. Dogs have a much more sensitive sense of taste and smell than humans, and these artificial additives can be overwhelming or even toxic for them.
Raised, stainless steel food and water bowls, they are easy to keep clean and aid digestion as well as deterring pups from splashing water all over the floor (some pups love to do this).
Food storage bin that dogs can't get into! We have 4 of these bins in our pantry to keep those super sensitive Shepherd Dog noses from sniffing out and eating their grub without permission.
Kitchen waste bin that dogs cannot get into or tip over. Alternatively, have all of your rubbish bins behind lockable closed doors. Dogs can and will sniff out bins that have push or swing lids and you will get fed up of constantly picking up your rubbish and cleaning up the mess. Also, this can be a safety/chew hazard depending what's in your bin!
Poop bags - Don't leave home without them. You will end up finding them in all of your coat pockets; even the fancy ones! Always ensure they are strong and in a large size, with tie handles and unscented. You can purchase poop bag holders but we've always found these a bit of a faff to use and so tend to end up popping poop bags in our pockets. Poop scoops and shovels are also a bit of a waste of time, especially when you're on the move (they come into their own in your back garden), much easier to grab poop quickly and easily with your hand on the inside of a poop bag, grab the poop and then wrap the bag over it and tie the handle. Job done.
Grooming equipment - Slicker brush, bristle brush, nail file and flea combs. This particular kit contains nail clippers which are also contained in the first aid kit, however it doesn't harm to have 2 pairs, one for at home and one for when you're travelling. You can of course buy the individual pieces separately as well if you didn't want to double up. Grooming wipes - For ears, eyes and body and for when pup makes a mess (which they will do!), particularly when travelling. Never ever use Furminator brushes as these can damage a Shepherd Dog’s coat, the effect is akin to shaving them (something you should never do with a double coated breed).
Collar with approx. 22-30cm neck size/size Small, ID tag and lead (upgrade these as your puppy grows, lead recommended is a starter lead).
Never put your dog's call name on their ID tag as this can be used by thieves should your dog ever be stolen. Only ever use your surname, house number, street, postcode and phone number. ID tags should not dangle, as this is very annoying for a dog and their sensitive hearing and it is also a safety risk (they can easily get caught or trapped on something).
Enzymatic cleaner - Standard cleaners will not cut it when it comes to dog mess, in fact some will make the problem worse and encourage repeat marking. Ensure you have an enzymatic cleaner on hand for the perfect clean up.
We recommend purchasing and using this cleaner until pup is at least 4 months of age (and beyond if you wish) to neutralise any parvovirus germs. This is also excellent at preventing repeat marking and for neutralising odours. This is great for washing pet bedding and blankets etc.
Vacuum cleaner - Specifically for pet owners, get ready for those Shepherd Dog fluff balls! Vacuum robot - We use one of these as well as our standard vacuum to ensure we get all of the dog hair up and to stop fluff balls from forming, these robots can also mop your floors depending on which model you choose.
Kitchen rolls, mop and bucket, pet safe disinfectant ... always be ready to clean up any mess or accidents. When travelling don't forget to pack some bin bags or carrier bags with tie handles to put your soiled pee pads and/or kitchen rolls etc. into. Remember to make sure all cleaning products are non-toxic and pet safe (preferably perfume free).
Before your puppy arrives home it's generally a good idea to remove any scented products, candles, air fresheners, products containing fragrance or perfume etc. from around your home as these have the potential to cause severe allergies, sneezing and / or itching in dogs. Dogs really don't like them! We don’t recommend wearing any aftershave, perfume or highly scented products when around your puppy as the scent is overwhelming to them and can cause them to grow an aversion to whoever smells the strongest and nastiest (to them!).
Chew proof dog bed - (Opt for size 'Large' for females and size ‘X-Large’ for males) - Do not bother buying an expensive soft and fluffy designer bed for your new puppy, it will last all of 5 seconds. This type of non chew bed will last forever and it can still be made comfortable and cosy with easily replaceable and washable blankets or throws laid on top. We provide pup with a luxury throw in their puppy pack, so there is no need to purchase one of these until the one you will already be provided with is worn out.
Super tough chew toys that last a long while, we love these, these and these but there are many options available.
Kong Toys - Essential for keeping pup busy, happy and mentally stimulated whilst training. Fill them with their favourite mushed up treats and food, stick them in the freezer, take them out for pup when you need them, hours of fun!
Puppy pee pads - For use when travelling in the car or in their puppy buggy etc. just in case they have an accident, do not use for toilet training in the home. These are a washable and re-usable version that last longer and can’t be ripped up as easily!
We do not allow pups to travel home on pick-up day if they are not secured safely and legally in your car. That means no passengers holding pup on their knees, dropping them into a cardboard box or popping pup into a car bed without being properly fastened in for the journey.
The Highway Code states:
''Rule 57
When in a vehicle make sure dogs or other animals are suitably restrained so they cannot distract you while you are driving or injure you, or themselves, if you stop quickly. A seat belt harness, pet carrier, dog cage or dog guard are ways of restraining animals in cars.''
This harness is quite expensive however you will not require anything else to tether your puppy in the front of your car should you get one, as this harness is crash tested and rule 57 compliant. Alternatively, we recommend putting your puppy in a secure and lockable crate in the back of your car. Crates and cages should be as strong and sturdy as possible and not made of flimsy plastic or thin metal, so they cannot be crushed in the event of an accident.
If you do not have the appropriate equipment to travel safely with your new puppy in your car, we recommend utilising the services of a pet courier to transport your puppy to you.
Collapsible dog food and water bowls and travel water bottle, for those longer journeys when you'll need to stop for something to eat and drink. Great for overnight trips and holidays away from home. Always carry water in a well sealed water bottle when travelling anywhere with your dog.
Travel bags for your dog are a great idea as you can keep everything in one place and most come with collapsible food and water bowls already installed.
First Aid Kit - Invaluable. A must have both at home or when travelling with pup. Know how to use your kit, animal/dog first aid courses are available up and down the Country. This particular kit also contains tick removal tools and nail clippers so you don't need to purchase them separately if you don't wish to do so.
We strongly recommend always having these items in stock at home alongside your first aid kit as you will need them at some point in the future and these will cost much less than what your vet will provide you with whilst still yielding the same results;
Manuka honey and purple spray for wound care.
Anti-fungal cream containing Clotrimazole (the magic ingredient) for ringworm or other fungal infections.
Seaweed/Kelp which has antibacterial properties, this clears up urinary tract infections quickly and effectively. Kelp is also great for removing plaque from teeth and keeping a dog’s breath smelling fresh.
Ear cleaner for regular use and for treating ear infections (if symptoms persist, antibiotics may be required however keeping up with your dog’s ear hygiene can help prevent infections from developing in the first place)
Joint supplements ~ Extremely beneficial for puppies who have Panosteitis (lameness, limping or growing pains, common in all dogs but particularly in Shepherd Dog puppies as they go through their growth spurts), for working or sport dogs on their feet all day doing high intensity exercise and finally for senior dogs who don’t move like they used to!
Raspberry Leaf Tablets ~ Helps support entire (unspayed) females through their heat cycles and/or phantom pregnancies.
Pee post - For whichever area you would like puppy to pee in, it encourages them to pee near or against it. You can use this spray to help puppy along, in conjunction with the pee post.
Shampoo - Handy for a freshen up every now and then. The shampoo we have recommended here smells amazing and has the added benefit of keeping fleas, ticks, mites and flies away. For small amounts of mud and dirt, leave dog to dry off for an hour or so and simply brush out the dried dirt, this saves having to wash them every time they get mucky and helps keep their natural oils and their coat looking shiny. Any time you wash your Shepherd Dog, always ensure they are dried off thoroughly so they don’t catch a chill and so that no mould or bacteria can develop under the thick fur. Ensure all shampoo is rinsed out thoroughly before drying.
Do not be afraid of washing or bathing your dog or taking them to the groomers regularly, a clean coat makes your dog feel good, smell fresh and keeps bugs and nasties away.
Blow dryer for drying dog’s fur quickly and easily.
Use the shampoo mentioned above in conjunction with the Fleas, ticks, flies and mites spray (a quick spray and brush through on tick hot spots after shampooing is all that’s needed) and also by itself - keeps the bug at bay, naturally. No nasty chemicals required, simply spray on and brush in well, before you head out on your walk.
We also recommend this food supplement as an ongoing natural preventative against parasites and worms, to be used once a month over 3 days. We can confirm that this product does indeed eliminate worms having tested it on a subject whose faecal analysis showed the presence of roundworms, after receiving this treatment the second faecal test came back clear.
Raw and organic pumpkin seeds are also very effective at paralysing worms and removing them from the digestive system and can be sprinkled over food anytime. For reassurance that your dog is worm free, we recommend faecal testing every three or four months.
Microfibre dog towel - For drying pup after a bath or shower, these hand towels are also a great option as you can actually fit your hands into each specially designed end for more control. These drying robes are also a great idea. Always ensure if your dog visits the seaside and swims in the sea that the sea water is thoroughly cleaned out of its coat before it dries, as it can cause yellowing in dogs with White fur. Dogs must be 100% dry after being washed or in water otherwise mould and bacteria can thrive in wet coats.
Dawn & Phil 🐾
